Had a bit of time to sit down and work on a new route animation. This pink V4 route was the first new set after the Locals Only Comp and uses pocket holds and the volume along the route. The wall angles are such that the dark grey portion comes out at a slight ~5º angle and slants back in at ~5º as you get into the orange portion.
There’s a few other tricky bits to this route. First, the start lies you sideways while the first move is a reach upwards and into the next pocket. This can be an odd move as you naturally want to push with your foot as soon as you reach. At my height, I had to wait a moment to get my hand into the pocket before pushing on my foot to stabilize the swing. Otherwise, my body would come out from the wall too far and I’d slip right out of the pocket.
Next, the topmost right hold is terrible the first time you grab it. The top is flat and very lightly textured unlike the rest of the hold. The first time I grabbed it, I exclaimed “What the hell is this?” The flat surface and light texture does not allow your fingers to pull most of your weight on it. You just pull yourself right off. There’s an indentation that you can place your thumb. That can’t be used to pull as much as pinch and push off of.
Last, the foot chips to the left of the volume and the top-most on the right get masked while you’re on the wall. It can be confusing to try and find them as you cannot see where your left foot is placed behind the volume. As soon as you get up high enough to move your right foot, the chip is placed on the grey portion which becomes partially blocked by the high point of the wall. Once you lean into the wall for stability, the foot chip disappears. Stare at it and memorize where it is before you move because you aren’t going to see it again until you get back on the ground.