The Locals Only Comp

The comp is done! I feel that I firmly landed somewhere just short of the middle for the intermediate climbers. That makes complete sense. The category is V2-V6 and I’m somewhere around a V3-V4 climber. What matters most is that come Monday evening, there will be new routes to work as projects.

There’s no atmosphere in sports like a climbing competition. While you are climbing against others, you’re cheering your fellow competitors on. The red point comp is peer-judged. You select a route, you climb as someone else watches on and marks your attempt. If you finish (or send, in the correct lingo), they will sign off that you completed the route. Each route is numbered and the routes get progressively harder. Your score is based on the top 5 climbs that you complete and rankings created from that.

Here are the top 5 I completed and a little description to go along with them. All routes start with the tape next to the numbers.

Route 21: Pink Slab Traverse (V4)

Locals only route number 21, a slab traverse route across three walls

This route starts with a traverse that starts low to the left with two hands that moves to a pocket above your head. Balance and stability is key on this route. Each step to the right gets you closer to where there’s two small button holds for your feet. I went with the left one next to the two black holds and mantled my right hand low. This freed up my left hand to cup the left hold next to the end. Moving the right foot up to the next button, I could grab the finish hold, rearrange my feet, and finish the climb. You really have to trust that if you remove a foot from one of the foot holds along the traverse that you are going to stay stable. This really challenges that feeling. I fell off multiple times because I couldn’t remember to remove my back foot from the position it was in and ended up completely unbalanced.

Route 22: Pink Slab ascent (V3+)

Locals only route 22, a pink slab ascent route

Another slab route? Yep, another slab route with an ascent. Nothing is too complicated with this route. Every hold feels solid. There is a huge advantage when you are taller on this route. Some good foot presses into flat surfaces are about the worst part of this route. I flashed this one when I had a left hand on the finish and went “Oh, I could just reach right up there…” Done. Nice technical slab movements in this route.

Route 23, Pink Pinch ascent (V4)

Locals only route 23, a pink pinch route

This route starts with a left heel hook on the left start hold. Nice movements to pick your self up and move to the pinches that run down the center of the route. Trusting those thin pinches is hard. The right foot moves up in to the bowl shape hold so you have to trust each pinch moving up the route. Good shelf at the top to grab.

Route 25 Blue Pinch ascent with a squat start (V4)

Locals only route 25, a blue pinch ascent with a squat start

I skipped 24 because I knew I was going to burn out on it. I had done 25 before 24 and was quite thankful afterwards.

The start is Awkward. The left hold slopes downward slightly and there’s no edge on the bottom to pinch. The right is chunky enough to mantle on. Finding a good foot position is hard as well. I opted for the outer edge of my left foot. The three holds on the center are good pinches with positive feeling. Bring your thumb and don’t let your grip up. The finish hold is a great positive hold that you can pop up to.

Route 27 Yellow 40 degree ascent (V4)

Locals only route 27, a yellow ascent on the 40 degree wall

I ended up going after this route first after my warmup. I picked wisely since it was the hardest one I completed all night. I completely missed number 26 and didn’t realize I had passed it by.

This wall is at about a 40 degree pitch. I’ve climbed a few routes on this wall and the main thing to remember is that every move needs to be close to the wall. The flow on this route is really great for showing off some technique. There’s a nice heel hook to the hold to the right. Two crosses that feel great to do. The second to last hold requires a right hand. You can match here or just cross with your left hand to the final hold. It’s a big hold that you can jump to without much issue.

After this, I attempted number 28 (V5) multiple times. The 4th attempt was one hold away from the end. I just ran out of energy for that attempt. After that, it wasn’t going to happen. I now know what my first project is going to be.